What is the difference between cosmeceutical and non-cosmeceutical skincare?
What is ‘Cosmeceutical Skin Care’?
Firstly, let's take a look and break down what ‘Cosmeceutical Skin Care’ actually is. Essentially cosmeceutical skin care, is skin care that has active ingredients in that help to deliver skin care results.
But what are active ingredients?
Active ingredients include:
- Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)
- Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)
- Antioxidants, Vitamins and Botanical Extracts, to name a few.
Each active ingredient has its own specific properties, and is suited for a particular skin concern, this is why it is so important to understand your skin type and ensure you are treating the right concern. It can be very beneficial to work alongside a professional skin therapist as they will be able to guide in the best approach for your specific skin type.
Who should be using cosmeceutical skincare?
The answer is simple, everyone can use it. There will be exceptions to some products, such as retinol for those who are pregnant and breastfeeding. This is where going into a skincare clinic and talking to a professional is extremely beneficial.
Cosmeceutical active ingredients in detail
So, let’s take a look at some key active ingredients and what they do:
- AHAs: These commonly come in the form of Lactic Acid, Glycolic Acid and Mandelic Acid and help to stimulate cells in the skin to support collagen health, exfoliation and skin hydration.
- BHAs: Salicylic Acid is an oil soluble acid, it effectively ‘unblocks’ oil clogged pores, exfoliates the skin and is particularly effective for acne prone skin
- Hyaluronic Acid: A serum that is known to retain the moisture in your skin.
- Retinol: Long been considered one of the holy grails of active skin care. Retinol is a concentrated, encapsulated form of Vitamin A. It is particularly effective in anti-ageing, pigmentation and acne inflamed skin. This is a photosensitive product and must be only applied at night.
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Vitamins: Just like we take vitamins internally to benefit our body, we can apply them topically to nourish our skin. For example, Vitamin C protects us from free radical damage, brightens pigmentation, synthesizes collagen and strengthens our capillary walls.
- Peptides: These short chains of amino acids can be linked together in different combinations, to treat a variety of skin concerns.
- Antioxidants: These are vitamins and minerals that protect your skin from free radicals - such as smoke, pollution and environmental stressors that we can’t control. These free radicals can affect our cells, and weaken our collagen.
- Botanical extracts: The power of botanicals should not be underestimated. Botanical ingredients are plant extracts, oils that are often derived from flowers, nuts, herbs, seeds, berries, leaves and barks. Often, they will have rejuvenating and healing properties.
What is the difference between Cosmeceutical skincare and skincare that you can pick up at the supermarket?
Supermarket skincare often has very minimal, if any, active ingredients in. You will find most of these products will feel nice on the skin, and will hydrate it, but will not actively or visibly change the skin.
Quality of ingredients
The quality of ingredients are key in optimal skin care routines. ‘Cheaper’ products often involve ingredients that are not ideal for your skin, and may even have social and environmental impacts. Palm oil is a great example of an ingredient you should avoid in a skincare product. It thickens products, and whilst it is considered hydrating, the production of palm oil is known for its contribution to deforestation and endangering animal species. Similarly, microplastics impact natural waterways and are now widely discontinued in cosmetics (and rightly so, they are incredibly unnecessary), however there are scrubs that contain walnut shell as an alternative to microplastics, which can be incredibly abrasive on the skin and can cause impaired skin barriers and sensitivity.
Availability
Some cosmeceutical companies only supply their products to professional skin clinics, or trained professionals, particularly products that have high concentrations of active ingredients. Without the guidance of a professional, skin care can be misused or even overused, and result in compromised skin barriers, sensitivity, irritation and even breakouts.
Tips to remember when considering cosmeceutical skin care
We know there is a lot to take in when it comes to cosmeceutical skin care! Here are some tips to remember when considering any new cosmeceutical products in your skin routine.
- Understand your skin type and the skin concern you are treating
- Read the ingredients of products you are considering
- Know when to apply the product (e.g. retinol can only be used at night)
- Introduce products to your skin routine slowly to avoid compromising your skin barrier and sensitising your skin
- Where possible, work with a skin professional who can guide you on the appropriate usage of cosmeceutical skin care
In conclusion, the team here at The Face Collective are firm believers that there is room for everyone, and a place for everything (well, almost!). If you have a product that has been your go-to for years, and you love it, keep going with it! Perhaps look at some other products to introduce to your routine that will work alongside and enhance the features of your existing products.
